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NIHONGO

A guide to gourmet-lingualism in Japanese
Loan words and food in Japan

Sushi has become very common in Australia these days – but the same thing can be said about western food in Japan. The variety of western food available in Japan is almost overwhelming. But language-wise, how do we refer to western food items in Japanese? Basically, the original words are borrowed and the sounds are rendered in a form natural to Japanese pronunciation. So there’s ‘omuretsu’ for omelette, ‘supagettii’ for spaghetti, ‘biiru’ for beer and so on. This is good news for English speakers – try to insert or emphasise a vowel after each consonant and it may work!

What about things that are not so obviously ‘western’? For instance, ‘milk’ has a Japanese translation, gyuunyuu, as well as the loan word miruku. Many Japanese people are familiar with Australian beef as oojiibeefu, but it is often called gooshuusan gyuuniku, ‘Australian produced beef’, as well. Rice, the national pride (and obsession), can also be in two forms: raisu and gohan. So, when is the loan word used in these cases? First, it depends on the context – when rice accompanies foreign food such as curry (karee) or beef stroganoff (beefu sutoroganofu), raisu is used. A bowl of rice served as part of a traditional Japanese meal would be gohan. Secondly, it depends on the desired effect – loan words indicate ‘prestige’ or ‘stylishness’ associated with the west.

An example is the loan word suiitsu ‘(western) sweets’, which has recently become popular. The Japanese word (o)kashi was traditionally used for both western and Japanese sweets.

Proverb for Japanese Foodies 2:

Hana yori dango
(flowers) (than) (dumplings)
Better to have a full stomach than to enjoy flowers

The reference to flowers and dumplings comes from a Japanese tradition of admiring cherry blossoms in spring, and people used to bring dumplings to eat while sitting under cherry trees. This proverb is often used to tease someone for not being refined or cultured and more interested in practical things, such as eating.

So, if you see someone more interested in lamb chops on the barbie than enjoying lovely views, you can use this proverb. However, it can also mean that practicality is more important than appearance or status, so can also use it to justify your good appetite!

by Ikuko Nakane
Lecturer, University of Melbourne
Asia Institute