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RESTAURANT REVIEW
Mino Restaurant

Kaiseki cuisine is otherwise known ‘cha’ (tea) kaiseki, because it was originally served during traditional tea ceremonies. It was thought that the tea would taste better if people weren’t hungry, so an endless array of tiny, exquisitely presented dishes were served up along with the tea.

Expecting Mosman prices and kaiseki grandeur, I did a double-take when I first glanced at Mino’s menu. Tagged ‘Mini Kaiseki Banquet,’ the five-course meal (a degustation except for the main dish which can be chosen from nine dishes) came with a humble price tag of $40.

My eyes darted back and forth between the two ‘mini-kaiseki’ menus: ‘goshu’ and ‘mino’. They look almost identical. Later, I am told that goshu is more Aussie-friendly, with fewer raw options. Mino kicks off with an appetiser of seared salmon and sea urchin wrapped in yuba tofu skin, whereas goshu starts with less adventurous steamed prawns.

The appetiser of sea urchin wrapped with mango is delectable, and also available as a main for $14 from the a la carte menu. The kaiseki banquet is excellent value but it’s nice to have the a la carte option.

Mains such as tempura and sukiyaki hotpot are hearty and well executed, but chef Nakochi’s assorted grilled entrée truly shows off his 25-year experience as a kaiseki cuisine chef. The barramundi is served up hot in foil with a fantastic mayonnaise concoction flavoured with walnuts and soy. Seared scallop is succulent and is artfully presented with dill and salmon roe. ‘If I find an ingredient I like, I test different recipes until I am satisfied,’ says the chef. This experimental approach ensures delicious, constantly evolving flavours.

by Akiko Ganivet

Interview with chef Nakochi


‘After working at Tokyo’s Takanawa Prince Hotel for two years, I was invited to be head chef of Matsukaze restaurant (formerly at Chifley Plaza) in Sydney. I did not know then that I would stay in Sydney for so long!’ says Mr. Nakochi. But after eight years there, he scouted for a small and cosy restaurant location he could call his own. ‘On my days off I play with the kids, eat out and try different restaurants. I love using Australian ingredients like barramundi because it has the right amount of fat but it is not dominant in flavour.’

DATA
Mino Restaurant
521 Military Road, Mosman, NSW 2088
Tel : (02) 9960 3351

Mini kaiseki banquet ($40, offered Tuesday through Thursday and on Sunday)
Kaiseki banquet ($55, offered Friday and Saturday)

Trading Hours
Tues–Sun 6pm–10pm
Licensed and BYO (wine only)